“It’s Africa”. Wie oft habe ich das von den Einheimischen gehört, wenn mal wieder der Strom ausfiel oder 30 Leute wie Käfighennen in ein Daladala gequetscht wurden statt der vorgesehenen 16. Es klang immer ein wenig entschuldigend, dieses von einem gequälten Schulterzucken begleitete “It’s Africa”. Dabei finde ich das Unplanbare, Ungewöhnliche gerade inspirierend. Nur heute, da weiß ich nicht so recht, was ich davon halten soll.
Ich hatte geplant, die erste Etappe der so genannten Coca-Cola-Route auf den Kilimanjaro zu wandern. Der Name erklärt sich von selbst: Die Route ist so frequentiert wie der Eingangsbereich einer Thalia-Buchhandlung am Erstverkaufstag eines Harry-Potter-Bandes. Unser bestellter Taxifahrer war pünktlich. Unterwegs fiel ihm ein, dass das Benzin ja so teuer geworden sei und er statt des ohnehin fürstlichen (leider nicht von mir vereinbarten) Lohns von 40.000 Tansanischen Schilling (20 Euro) nun für eine Strecke bitte 50.000 Schilling bekäme. Am Marangu Gate, wo die Coca-Cola-Harry-Potter-Route beginnt, erfuhren wir dann den Eintrittspreis für die Tageswanderung: satte 60 US-Dollar – plus 40.000 Schilling für den obligatorischen Guide.
Gut: Ich hatte 60 US-Dollar bar dabei. Weniger gut: Bezahlen ging ausschließlich mit Kreditkarte. Schlecht: Ich hatte die Kreditkarte zuhause gelassen und mein Vorschlag, es “African Style” zu regeln – Zahlen ohne Quittung, die Kassierer stecken die 60 Dollar privat ein und ich darf hinein – wurde erstaunlicherweise abgelehnt. Seltsam, zum Beispiel bei Bußgeldern für (reale oder von Polizisten aus Gründen der Gehaltsaufbesserung erfundene) Verkehrsverstöße klappt die private Begleichung an Staatsbedienstete ausgezeichnet. Dass Einheimische am Marangu Gate nur 1.500 Schilling (also 75 Cent) Eintritt zahlen, war für mich angesichts meines Zugangsverbots nicht mehr als eine Fußnote.
Also hieß es, mal wieder zu improvisieren. Derselbe Guide namens Beatus, der uns auch auf der 8-Stunden-Wanderung begleitet hätte, führte uns stattdessen über Bananen- und Avocado-Plantagen sowie durch zwei, drei kleine Dörfer. “Ist doch besser, als auf der ersten Kili-Etappe acht Stunden durch Waldgebiet zu laufen und dabei den Kilimanjaro überhaupt nicht zu sehen”, sagte Beatus und zeigte auf den mächtigen Gipfel des Bergmassivs, der in der Morgensonne schimmerte. Das klang vernünftig, und so fand ich es gar nicht mehr so schlimm, dass sich der Tagesablauf spontan geändert hatte.
Als wir an den schönen Marangu-Wasserfällen ankamen und Beatus merkte, dass wir hier lange verweilen, in der Sonne sitzen und den plantschenden Jugendlichen zuschauen wollten, machte er sich aus dem Staub. Dass er für zwei Stunden Spaziergang statt acht Stunden Bergauf-Bergab-Wandern nur 35.000 Schilling statt der vereinbarten 40.000 bekam, dürfte er verschmerzt haben. Zurück nach Moshi fuhren wir dann mit dem Daladala – für 1.500 Schilling. Vielleicht wäre das auch eine gute idee für die Hinfahrt gewesen.
Ums kurz zu machen: Heute ärgere ich mich das erste Mal über das, was in den Unterlagen der mich vermittelnden Organisation als “Geschäftssinn” der Einheimischen bezeichnet wird. Ich habe kein Problem damit, mehr als “Locals” zu bezahlen. Erst recht nicht, wenn die Leistung stimmt, etwa eine Mahlzeit toll schmeckt (das tut sie immer) oder mir mal wieder bei einem Technikproblem aus der Patsche geholfen wird. Aber abgezockt zu werden ist kein besonders schönes Gefühl.
Um mit dem Tag doch noch ins Reine zu kommen, habe ich mir im besten Café Moshis einen “echten”, starken, schwarzen Kaffee sowie eine Cola Light (denn die gibt’s dort!) gegönnt und dazu die Tageszeitung gelesen. Hat funktioniert.
Für gute Laune bei mir sorgte auf dem Heimweg dann auch ein herumlümmelnder Junge. Auf seinem T-Shirt stand auf Deutsch “Held der Arbeit”. Schönen Gruß an die Altkleidersammlung daheim. Getoppt wurde das nur noch von einem Mädchen aus dem Tuleeni-Waisenhaus bei meinem ersten Fußballtraining. “Blonde, but not stupid” – Blond, aber nicht blöd – stand auf ihrem knallpinken T-Shirt. Das wollte nicht so recht zu ihrem krausen, pechschwarzen Haar passen.
Für die verbleidende Zeit hier sollte ich mir vielleicht auch ein T-Shirt zulegen: “Mzungo, but not stupid” – “Weißer, aber nicht blöd”. Morgen im Schwimmbad habe ich einen ganzen Tag lang Zeit, diese Idee weiterzuverfolgen…
Hi Löwenbändiger-light!
Ich muss schon sagen, dass ich wirklich neidisch auf die Erfahrungen bin, die Du dort machst. Ich glaube dass jeder so etwas auf die eine oder andere Art mal gemacht haben sollte, damit der Blickwinkel auf das eigene Leben mal ein anderer ist.
Was das Schmieren angeht: das ist ja nun leider in allen Kulturen zu Hause und eigentlich kann man es ja auch grade in solch armen Ländern nachvollziehen, da ja das Verständnis bei den meisten Einheimischen dafür fehlt, das man als Weißer eben nicht unermesslich reich ist – wobei es in Relation gesehen jeder deutsche Mittelstandsbürger eigentlich ist.
Und wenn ich bedenke, was ich so manches in Namibia im Zusammenleben zwischen Schwarz und Weiß erlebt habe, kann ich eine gewisse Abzocker-Mentalität tatsächlich nicht verdenken. Und bei Dir können sie ja nicht wissen, dass Du kein durchschnittlicher Mzungo bist ;-))
Weiterhin viele tolle Erlebnisse! Liebe Grüße von Rex
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