Heute wartete ein ganz besonderes Erlebnis auf mich. Ich durfte eine Massai-Familie kennenlernen. Das war etwas ganz Außergewöhnliches.

Dabei hatte der Tag wenig verheißungsvoll begonnen. An unserer Daladala-Haltestelle stieg ich in den zweiten, leereren Van. Der erste und abfahrbereite Daladala quoll – wie hier üblich – geradezu über vor Insassen. Plötzlich stiegen alle aus dem ersten Van aus und liefen zu unserem Fahrzeug, ihres hatte offenbar eine Panne. Na toll, klar war unser Daladala mit einem Schlag voller als ein Junggesellenabschied in El Arenal und man war zugedeckt mit Haupthaar und Achselhöhlen, aber auch primären und sekundären Geschlechtsmerkmalen von Menschen, die man nicht kannte und so genau auch keinesfalls kennenlernen wollte. Mir gegenüber wurde eine Marktfrau auf halbe Größe gepresst. Leider stellte sie ihren unverändert großen Obstkorb auf meiner hellen Businesshose ab, zu der ich angesichts der für heute anberaumten Dienstreise ein weißes Hemd angezogen hatte. Danke für nichts, liebe Marktfrau: Im Büro musste ich die Hose mit einem Putzlappen von zweifelhafter Reinheit abrubbeln.
Zur Wut gesellte sich auch noch der erste Schweißausbruch des sonnig-wolkenlosen Tages.

Dienstreise hieß, in einem 3000-Einwohner-Vorortdorf (verteilt auf vier “Communities”) von Moshi herauszufinden, wie präsent dort die Praxis der Genitalverstümmelung sowie die Aufklärung (u.a. von betroffenen Mädchen und Frauen) über Folgen und Risiken sind. Die Hinfahrt dauerte mit dem Auto etwa eine Stunde. Daran lässt sich ablesen, wie flächenmäßig groß der Bezirk Moshi eigentlich ist. Auch wenn die Route zumeist entlang der gefühlt größten Zuckerrohr-Plantage der Welt verlief (jedenfalls versorgt sie angeblich ganz Tansania mit Zucker), bekam ich einen ersten Eindruck von der Natur außerhalb Moshis: staubig, trocken und trotzdem satt grün.

Zuerst interviewten wir die Dorfärztin. Ihre Praxis irgendwo im Nirgendwo bestand aus zwei karg eingerichteten Zimmerchen , die Patienten saßen draußen auf einer Bank, immerhin im Schatten. “Interviewen” heißt: Unsere wissenschaftliche Hilfskraft Asifiwe fragte auf Kisuaheli, die Antworten kamen auf Kisuaheli, und ich stellte ab der Mitte meine vorbereiteten Fragen. Ergebnis: Genitalverstümmelung gibt es dort nicht. Das ist in etwa so, als würde ein niedergelassener deutscher Allgemeinmediziner behaupten, er habe niemals mit Grippeinfektionen zu tun. Warum die Ärztin diese Aussage traf, vermag ich nicht zu beurteilen, auch nicht, ob sie eine Ärztin im klassischen Sinne war. Aber sie hatte ein Stethoskop auf dem Tisch liegen…

Danach sprachen wir mit einem so genannten Leader der Community, einem gesellschaftlichen angesehenen Mann. Über einflussreiche Wortführer wie ihn steuert NAFGEM in der Regel die Kampagnen. Er sagte zwei interessante Dinge: Dass es Genitalverstümmelung gäbe – aber keine Aufklärungsarbeit, um das zu ändern. Mein Arbeitgeber, der in diesem Bezirk momentan aus gewissen Gründen nicht tätig sein kann, hatte das befürchtet.

Danach ging es zu Fuß über staubige Feldwege zu einer kleinen Ansammlung von Lehmhütten. Dort, fernab jeglicher Touristenströme, wohnt eine Massai-Großfamilie. Als Erstes kamen die etwa 15 bis 20 Kinder angeflitzt und begrüßten uns fröhlich, griffen nach meinen Händen (als einziger Weißer stand ich im Mittelpunkt) und redeten alle auf einmal auf mich ein. Danach rückten die vier Ehefrauen an. Auch sie waren überaus freundlich. Mit einer verstand ich mich besonders gut, sie hatte mich statt mit normalem Handschlag wie die anderen mit einer bronxartigen Grifffolge begrüßt (so, wie es die Jugend in Deutschland heute auch macht). Der Clanchef, vierfache Ehemann und Vater der ganzen Kinderhorde stand ein paar Meter weiter. Er machte nicht viele Worte, lächelte milde, sein gräuliches Haar verlieh ihm etwas Würdevolles. Beeindruckend – wie auch die beiden jungen erwachsenen Massai, die in ihrem leuchtend blau-roten Gewand auf einem Hirtenstab gestützt und mit einem angezogenen Bein wortlos, aber lächelnd im Hintergrund standen.

Bei dieser Stippvisite wurde nicht über Genitalverstümmelung gesprochen, dafür passten schon der Rahmen und die vollständige Präsenz der Familie nicht. Dennoch ließ mich der Besuch bei den Massai alles andere als kalt. Sie leben in totaler Einöde, ihre kargen Lehmhütten standen wirklich im staubigen, dreckigen Nichts zwischen dornigen Büschen und verdörrten Bäumen. Ganze Schwärme von Fliegen schwirrten um die Köpfe der Kinder – so wie man es aus den Einspielfilmchen kennt, wenn das ZDF mal wieder eine Spendengala für hungernde Menschen veranstaltet. Und doch hatte ich nicht im entferntesten das Gefühl, dass Mitleid nötig ist. Diese Menschen scheinen mit sich und dem Leben im Reinen. Die Massai definieren das Hier und Jetzt, definieren Glück und Zufriedenheit eben anders als Menschen aus Mannheim oder Melbourne oder Manaus. Kategorien wie “besser” oder “schlechter” empfand ich in dem Moment nicht als angebracht, auch wenn ich beileibe nicht tauschen wollte. Deswegen fuhr ich mit einem guten Gefühl zurück nach Hause.

Dort wartet jetzt das Wochenende im Tarangire Nationalpark und im Ngorongoro-Krater auf mich. Nächste Woche wird es interessant: Für Dienstag habe ich ein Freundschaftsspiel gegen ein anderes Waisenhaus vereinbart. Hoffentlich klappt’s! Und natürlich gab es wieder einen Verletzten gestern beim Fußball. Diesmal musste ein Nachbarsjunge mit Schmerzen am ganzen Bein aufhören, weil er im vollen Lauf leicht von einem Gegenspieler touchiert wurde und sehr unsanft zu Fall kam.

Die Überschrift? War ein blöder Scherz von mir. Die Etagentoilette unseres Bürohauses verfügt über keine Seife. Ist ja nicht so appetitlich, deshalb habe ich gestern Mittag Seife besorgt und aufs Waschbecken gestellt – versehen mit dem handgeschriebenen Schild “If you steal it, you’ll come into hell”. Abgesehen von dem fragwürdigen Englisch und dem Bezug auf unsere allein christliche Wahnvorstellung der Hölle ertappte ich mich selbst dabei, dass ich Diebstahl als Normalität annahm. Das Schild habe ich nach zwei Stunden abgenommen. Die Seife steht noch heute, also einen Tag später, da.

Join the Conversation

1417 Comments

  1. Hi Olaf,
    und wieder gleicht Dein Blog einer Zeitreise. Das, was Du da über die Massai in ihrem Dorf geschrieben hast, kommt mir alles so bekannt vor. Die Freundlichkeit der Leute und die offensichtliche Zufriedenheit mit einem Leben, das wir als ärmlich und dreckig empfinden würden, wenn wir einen Fernsehbeitrag darüber sehen. Genauso empfand ich das damals auch.
    Man sieht Deinen Fotos auch an, dass die Kinder ganz verrückt danach sind, ihre Gesichter auf dem Bildschirm einer Digitalkamera zu sehen. Ich nehme an, du hast noch ein paar Fotos machen müssen;-)
    Wobei ich es damals faszinierend und gleichzeitig auch erschreckend fand, wie sich diese Freundlichkeit ändern kann, je mehr Kontakt die Leute zu westlichen Touristen haben. Ich war total schockiert, als mir ein paar Tage nach dem Besuch in so einem Dorf weitab vom Schuß die Massai am Lake Natron nicht mehr von der Seite wichen, im Versuch, ihre Ketten zu verkaufen oder sie die Hand aufhielten, nachdem man ein Foto von ihnen gemacht hatte. Aber wie du an anderer Stelle schriebst, als Mzungu ist man für die Leute einfach unermesslich reich und da wird es dann als Selbstverständlichkeit angesehen, etwas von dem Reichtum abzugeben. Was es irgendwie ja auch ist. Trotzdem fällt das leichter, wenn die Leute dabei freundlich bleiben…

    Viel Spaß noch.
    Frank (AoBa)

    P.S. Bin total neidisch darauf, dass du den Kili so schön und majestätisch gesehen hast. Dass ich die Big Five nicht automatisch alle zu Gesicht kriegen würde, hatte ich ja geahnt, aber damit, dass sich ein Berg auch verstecken kann, hatte ich nicht gerechnet…

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  256. With havin so much content and articles do you ever run into any problems of plagorism or copyright violation? My website has a lot of completely unique content I’ve either authored myself or outsourced but it looks like a lot of it is popping it up all over the web without my authorization. Do you know any techniques to help reduce content from being ripped off? I’d truly appreciate it.

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  265. First off I want to say wonderful blog! I had a quick question in which I’d like to ask if you don’t mind. I was curious to know how you center yourself and clear your thoughts before writing. I have had trouble clearing my mind in getting my thoughts out. I do enjoy writing but it just seems like the first 10 to 15 minutes are wasted just trying to figure out how to begin. Any suggestions or tips? Cheers!

  266. I think what you postedwrotethink what you postedtypedsaidbelieve what you postedwrotesaidbelieve what you postedtypedWhat you postedwrotesaid was very logicala bunch of sense. But, what about this?consider this, what if you were to write a killer headlinetitle?content?wrote a catchier title? I ain’t saying your content isn’t good.ain’t saying your content isn’t gooddon’t want to tell you how to run your blog, but what if you added a titleheadlinetitle that grabbed people’s attention?maybe get a person’s attention?want more? I mean %BLOG_TITLE% is a little plain. You could look at Yahoo’s home page and watch how they createwrite news headlines to get viewers interested. You might add a video or a related pic or two to get readers interested about what you’ve written. Just my opinion, it might bring your postsblog a little livelier.

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