Ich sitze auf der Dachterrasse eines Café nahe der Double Road, der Hauptstraße in Moshi, und trinke schon den zweiten Kaffee. Der ist auch dringend nötig, denn genau hier endete vor etwa 12 Stunden mein gestriger Tag – und der hatte es wirklich in sich…
Der absolute Knaller war das Fußballtraining mit den Waisenkindern. Als ich um 10 Uhr den Innenhof des Waisenhauses betrat, erschrak ich allerdings zunächst. Das Tuleeni-Waisenhaus besteht aus einem matschigen Innenhof, der nur unwesentlich größer ist als ein durchschnittliches Wohnzimmer in München-Bogenhausen. Darum gruppieren sich U-förmig ein kleine, offene Garküche, eine Waschküche, zwei “Büros”, ein Hühnerstall und vier, fünf Wohnräume. Eigentlich ist das mehr ein Haus für eine Großfamilie als ein Komplex, der sehr viele Menschen beherbergen soll. Im Tuleeni Waisenhaus leben über 50 Kinder zwischen 0 und 16 Jahren, insgesamt betreut Tuleeni 78 Halbwaisen oder Waisen …
Natürlich wurde ich mit meiner riesigen roten Reisetasche, in der sich die Bälle und Trikots befanden, interessiert beäugt. Auch als ich bei der Tuleeni-Gründerin Mama Faraji und dem Direktor des Waisenhauses, Herrn Sixtus (das ist sein ziemlich römischer Vorname), im Büro saß, schoben die Kinder immer wieder ihre Köpfe neugierig in die Tür. Der Empfang von Mama Faraji und Sixtus war wie immer in Tansania: absolut offen, freundlich, geradezu herzlich. Und so fühlte ich mich auch hier sofort integriert und akzeptiert.
Sixtus erzählte mir etwas über die Geschichte des Hauses, die Gegenwart (besser: die gegenwärtigen Probleme) und die Zukunftsvisionen. Die bestehen im wesentlich in einem Umzug. Das Grundstück dafür ist schon gekauft, fehlt nur noch das Geld für den Bau der Gebäude… Danach besprachen wir die Gestaltung des Trainings, und dann ging es auch schon los.
Zuerst beschrifteten die Kinder von mir mitgebrachte Namenschilder und klebten sich diese aufs T-Shirt. So konnte ich sie mit persönlich ansprechen. Danach musste jeder einen Fußball aufpumpen. Währenddessen erklärte ich Helen (12) und Vanessa (10) nach bewährtem “1,2 oder 3”-Vorbild zu Kamerakindern. Helen fotografierte für mich, Vanessa filmte. Und als ich eigentlich schon zum nahe gelegenen Fußballfeld aufbrechen wollten, griff Mama Faraji zur Trillerpfeife und übernahm ganz Drill-Instructor-mäßig das Aufwärmprogramm. Großartig. Als Trainer (oder “teacher”, wie mich die Kindern nennen) konnte ich mich nicht davor drücken. Als ich mich beim Bockspringen als Bock zur Verfügung stellte, ein Kind nicht weit genug kam, mit seinem Hintern auf meinem Kopf landete und der ganze Hof lachte, merkte ich, dass es angebracht ist, autoritärer aufzutreten…
Darum bemühte ich mich redlich, als wir das Fußballfeld (ein verdörrter, aber zum Fußball durchaus geeigneter Acker) erreicht hatten. Ein Wahnsinn, 16 Kinder bändigen zu müssen! Die erste Übung klappte noch ganz gut. Jeweils zwei Kinder mussten sich den Ball zuspielen. Bei der nächsten Übung war dann schon Schluss mit Technikschulung. Das Zupassen eines Balles zwischen zwei Gruppen klappte noch ganz gut. Als ich vier Gruppen daraus machte, die sich über Kreuz zwei Bälle zuspielen sollten, endete das im heillosen Chaos. Abpfiff – und Anpfiff zum Spielen… Vorher verteilte ich den 16 offenbar an ADHS leidenden Kindern die Trikots (danke nochmal für die Pelé-Sports-Spende, Maria!) – eine einziges Gekreische und Gezerre. Mir schwante Böses.
Doch das Fußballspiel selbst war wenig dramatisch, die Kinder knubbelten sich um den Ball, von Spiel konnte keine Rede sein. Aber egal. Sie hatten ihren Spaß! Selbst der Kleinste von ihnen, Derrick (maximal drei Jahre alt, tippe ich), der plötzlich mit blutiger, aufgeplatzter Unterlippe vor mir stand. Mein Stofftaschentuch, das er zum Blutabwischen nutzte, durfte er natürlich behalten… Oder Dominik, der erst gar nicht mitmachen konnte, lässig in der prallen Sonne lag, auf meine Wertsachen aufpasste und mehr oder weniger das Spiel verfolgte. Sein Handicap: Er hatte vor einigen Tagen einen Streit zweier betrunkener Männer beobachtet. Einer der Männer wollte dem anderen einen Stein an den Kopf schleudern, verfehlte ihn – und traf Dominik mitten auf die Stirn. Er musste genäht werden und trägt jetzt so etwas wie einen Stirnturban. Im übrigen laut Sixtus auch eine wirtschaftliche Katastrophe für ein Waisenhaus, wo jeder Tansanische Schilling zählt. (Übrigens: So einen Treffer habe ich auch schon mal bei meinem Bruder gelandet, er wird sich erinnern…)
Etwas mulmig wurde mir zumute, als immer mehr Dorfjugendliche ans Spielfeld kamen. Sixtus, der mich zum Fußballfeld begleitet hatte und bereits wieder gegangen war, hatte mich gewarnt, dass sie die Bälle klauen wollen. Die Lösung war einfach: Ich habe die Dorfjugend mitspielen lassen und ihnen ebenfalls Trikots gegeben. Hat funktioniert.
Also: Es war nervlich anstrengend und ab sofort bewundere ich jeden Jugendtrainer. Aber es war auch toll! Genau das, wovon ich immer geträumt habe! Als wir nach drei Stunden (!) im Gänsemarsch zurück zum Waisenhaus gegangen sind, kein Ball und kein Trikot fehlte und zwei Kinder nach meinen Händen griffen, war das ein sehr schönes Gefühl. Trotz des Sonnenbrands auf meinen Armen und im Nacken.
Im Waisenhaus wartete nicht etwa was zu trinken auf uns, sondern Teller randvoll mit fetter, jedoch schmackhafter Bohnensuppe. Also saß ich mit den Kindern da. Verschwitzt. Kurz vorm Verdursten. Verlauste Hunde zu meinen Füßen. Aber glücklich. Mir ist schon jetzt klar, dass mir die Kinder sehr ans Herzen wachsen werden. Da ich heute nur verkatert (siehe unten), aber nicht krank bin, wage ich ein weiteres Zwischenfazit: Hygiene wird total überschätzt… Für die nächsten Wochen habe ich die Trainingseinheiten auf dienstags und donnerstags 15.30 Uhr festgesetzt, fast so wie früher beim TuS Humfeld… Mal gucken, was NAFGEM dazu sagt, wenn ich früher die Arbeit verlassen muss.
Der spontan organisierte Fahrer (der eigentlich engagierte Fahrer hatte überraschend eine Tour zum Flughafen übernommen statt zu mir …) brachte mich um 14 Uhr nach Hause. Er stellte sich mir als “Helga” vor. Als ich sagte, er könne mich Klausi nennen (was macht eigentlich die Lindenstraße?), zeigte er mir seinen Pass. Er hieß Helgard!
Teil zwei des gestrigen Tages war für mich beinahe ähnlich aufregend. Ich duschte zuhause und fuhr sofort wieder mit dem Daladala in die Innenstadt. Dort ging ich in eine Kneipe, in der auf fünf, sechs Fernsehern und Leinwänden englische Premier League (Arsenal und Chelsea) gezeigt wurde. Natürlich setzte ich mich zu dem einzigen Mzungu, Weißen, unter den bestimmt 150 Gästen in dem abgedunkelten Raum. Er hieß Liam, ist Ire und genauso trinkfest, wie man das von einem Iren erwarten darf. Also trank ich pünktlich zum Anpfiff um 16 Uhr mein erstes Bier des Tages und es blieb wahrlich nicht das letzte.
Liam und ich quatschten die ganze Zeit, statt Arsenal gegen Swansea zu gucken. Er und ist 28 Jahre alt reist seit einigen Monaten durch Afrika. Zuhause habe er es nicht mehr ausgehalten, fühle sich unfrei und unglücklich, sagt er. Nun, nach vielen Monaten, habe er den Sinn seiner Reise durch Ländern wie Südafrika, Mosambique oder Malawi erkannt. Es sei die Erkenntnis, dass es zu Hause doch am schönsten ist und er endlich sesshaft werden möchte – aber nicht mehr als gestresster 100.000-Euro-im-Jahr-Manager wie bisher, sondern auf dem Vieh-Bauernhof der Eltern. Allein deshalb, so Liam, habe sich die Reise gelohnt.
Und er habe noch was auf der Reise gelernt: Dass Deutsche viel, viel netter sind, als allgemein angenommen… Sein schönstes Erlebnis mit Deutschen hatte er aber nicht auf dieser Reise (ich nehm’s nicht persönlich), sondern zuvor bei einem Paris-Urlaub. Dort sahen er und seine Freundin den Schauspieler Daniel Brühl in einem Café und sprachen ihn an. Daniel Brühl setzte sich zu den beiden an den Tisch und unterhielt sich Ewigkeiten mit ihnen, erzählten etwas über die Dreharbeiten von Inglorious Basterds im allgemein und Quentin Tarantino im speziellen.
Der Abend, zu dem es inzwischen geworden war, endete für uns auf der Dachterrasse, auf der ich diese Zeilen gerade schreibe, mit einem indischen Essen und der Gesellschaft von Liams sehr netten Freundin Sarah, die dazugekommen war.
Heute, Sonntag, wollte ich eigentlich meine erste Safari machen. Das habe ich aber nicht mehr organisiert bekommen. Stört mich aber auch nicht besonders, schließlich habe ich noch genug Zeit und außerdem halte ich mich nur an Artikel 1 des tansanischen Grundgesetzes. Dieser lautet: pole, pole. Immer schön langsam…
“Genau das, wovon ich immer geträumt habe! Als wir nach drei Stunden (!) im Gänsemarsch zurück zum Waisenhaus gegangen sind, kein Ball und kein Trikot fehlte und zwei Kinder nach meinen Händen griffen, war das ein sehr schönes Gefühl.”
Was für ein toller Satz wenn man erst so wenige Tage dort ist! (musste direkt eine kleine Träne verdrücken als ich das gelesen habe, aber das liegt wohl an diesem Mama-Hormon 😉 )
Ganz liebe Grüße aus Hamburg
Alex
…ich lese diesen beitrag und möchte genau das gleiche wie alex posten.
um nicht wiederholungen in die kommentare reinzubringen lass ich es einfach, erfreue mich an diesem blog, vermisse dich ein bisschen hier (ja, ich weiss, meine schuld, dass wir uns nimmer gesehen haben) und wünsche dir und den kids nur das allerallerallerbeste mit und ohne ball!
glg aus muc,
maria nebst dem rest!
Olaf!
Wie toll, dass es dir da bisher so gut geht! Dani und ich lesen deine Berichte aus Afrika ganz gespannt und kümmern uns hier auch ein bisschen um “the female bread”.
Ich glaube, das ist da etwas GANZ GANZ Großes, das du da machst und ich bin mir sicher, dass die Erlebnisse dein gesamtes Leben auf den Kopf stellen werden. Schwerpunkte werden sich verschieben und du wirst nach deiner Zeit nicht mehr (ganz) der Alte sein. Da bin ich mir ganz sicher.
Dani und Sohnemann sind inzwischen sicher, gesund und happy zuhause und der Kleine entwickelt sich ganz ganz prächtig.
Genieß all die neuen Eindrücke, dieses “andere” Leben – das kann dir nie wieder jemand nehmen.
Alles Liebe und viel Erfolg für alles, was du da anpackst!
Herzliche Grüße aus der heute auch sonnigen und warmen Heimat senden Dani, Linus Noah und Hübi :-))
Hallo Hübi,
erst einmal herzlichen Glückwunsch zur Geburt Eures Sohnes! Schön, dass alles so gut geklappt hat. Anna hat schon berichtet, wie glücklich und tiefenentspannt Ihr seid.
Übrigens: Euer Handtuch – das Geburtstagsgeschenk – ist das einzige Handtuch, das ich mitgenommen hatte. Gestern musste ich mir dann doch mal langsam ein zweites kaufen…
Viele Grüße, auch an Dani,
Olaf
Bin mächtig beeindruckt und stolz auf Dich! Wie Du weisst, würde ich mir ja lieber einige Gliedmassen chirurgisch entfernen lassen (und zwar auf die afrikanische Art mit Beissholz und rostiger Säge) als mich alleine auf so ein Abenteuer einzulassen. Entsprechend fasziniert bin ich von Deinem Mut (wahrscheinlich gepaart mit einem tüchtigen Schuss Blauäugigkeit)! Sollte Dir trotzdem mal zum Heulen sein, melde Dich bei mir…
Weiterhin viel Spass (und lass Dich nicht wieder von einem Iren unter den Tisch saufen)!
PS: Deiner DK gehts gut – was war das wieder für ein Spiel am Sonntag…
Ciao Olaf…..
bello rivederti 🙂
Wie toll, dass es dir gut geht! Wir sind stolz auf dich :-)))))
Alles Liebe, viel spaß und viel Erfolg und nicht vergessen………
Immer schön langsam (genauso wie in Sizilien ) oder immer mit der Ruhe :-)))
Ciao Amico
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